My Philosophy
An honest approach to Italian wine criticism.
The Approach
Wine is more than just a beverage; it is a cultural artifact that tells the story of a specific place and time. My approach to criticism is built on the belief that context is everything.
When I review a Barolo or a Brunello, I am not looking for "power" or "intensity" in a vacuum. I am looking for typicity—does this wine accurately reflect its terroir, its vintage, and the intent of the producer?
Scoring & Disclosure
My scores reflect a strict adherence to quality standards. A 100-point wine is not just "delicious"; it is a flawless example of its category. Scores run from 90 to 100, because selection comes before scoring: a wine that has not earned a place in my buying earns no review here.
I do not claim to be a disinterested observer. I am the Italian wine buyer at K&L Wine Merchants, and the wines I review are the wines I have chosen to stand behind — selected on typicity, and on what a bottle delivers against what it costs. My commercial judgment and my published judgment are the same judgment. That position is set out in full on the Methodology & Disclosure page.