I have reviewed one wine from Bastian Cuntrari: the 2022 Bastian Cuntrari “Sassella” Valtellina Superiore (94 points).
Bàstian Cuntràri roughly translates as “doing things the contrary way”, which suits this rebellious Valtellina project. It is part of the modern movement reviving this traditional mountain region through minimal winemaking, and it works the dramatically steep, terraced vineyards of the Alps with a single focus: Chiavennasca, the local name for Nebbiolo.
Farming is organic and the winemaking hands-off. The Rosso di Valtellina and Valtellina Superiore are aged in neutral Slavonian oak, which keeps the emphasis on bright acidity, delicate wild strawberry, lifted floral notes and a rocky minerality. The result is a lighter, ethereal and thrillingly transparent take on Italy’s noblest grape.
The “Sassella” Valtellina Superiore comes from one of the most prized subzones of the valley, and it embodies the authentic character of Valtellina: pure alpine Nebbiolo from steep terraces.