The Fioretti Revolution: From Legend to Precision
For decades, Cerbaiona was synonymous with the late Diego Molinari, a retired pilot who made “lightning in a bottle” in
The Fioretti Revolution: From Legend to Precision Read Post »
Producer
Cerbaiona
I have reviewed two wines from Cerbaiona, from the 2021 to 2023 vintages, across Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino. All are Sangiovese. Scores range from 95 to 99, averaging 97; the highest is the 2021 Cerbaiona Brunello di Montalcino (99 points). Cerbaiona also features in two journal articles on this site.
Cerbaiona is one of the most mythical names in Montalcino. For decades it was synonymous with Diego Molinari, a retired pilot who founded the estate in 1977 and made “lightning in a bottle” in a rustic, almost accidental way. Since 2015 it has entered a more disciplined era under Matthew Fioretti, who moved it from a cult of personality to a cult of the vineyard: strictly organic farming, a spotless cellar and no new oak.
The vineyard sits on a high ridge at about 400 metres in the northern sector, on a concentrated deposit of galestro that forces the vines to struggle. It faces east and north-east, catching the gentle morning light for a long, slow ripening that preserves high-toned aromatics and a salty finish. Ageing in large Slavonian oak lets the fruit breathe without the taste of wood.
The 2021 Brunello is a masterpiece of verticality, with wild rose, sour cherry, blood orange peel, camphor and wet stone on ultra-fine tannins, a twenty-year wine. The Rosso di Montalcino comes from the same ridge and is essentially a baby Brunello: crunchy red cherry, mint and white pepper, with electric acidity.
2023 Cerbaiona Rosso di Montalcino
Calling this a “Rosso” is honestly a disservice. In the hands of a legendary estate like Cerbaiona, this is essentially
2021 Cerbaiona Brunello di Montalcino
Let’s talk about Cerbaiona. This estate is the absolute high temple of traditional Sangiovese. When you combine this mythical terroir
2021 Brunello di Montalcino – Vintage Report
If 2019 was operatic and 2020 was sunny, 2021 is the year of transparency. This is a vintage that vibrates with energy, defined by significant diurnal shifts that locked in soaring aromatics and “al dente” fruit profiles. Moving away from sheer muscle, the 2021 Brunellos are architectural and nervy, showcasing a savory, saline grip that speaks clearly of the Montalcino soil. For the collector who values elegance and tension over weight, this is a sophisticated, “intellectual” vintage that promises a fascinating evolution in the cellar.