Producer

Fontodi

I have reviewed two wines from Fontodi, all from the 2021 vintage, across Chianti Classico and Toscana. All are Sangiovese. Scores range from 96 to 98, averaging 97; the highest is the 2021 Fontodi “Flaccianello della Pieve” Toscana (98 points).

Fontodi is the jewel of Panzano in Chianti. The Manetti family, famous for its terracotta, has run the estate since 1968, and Giovanni Manetti leads it today. The vineyards lie in the Conca d’Oro, the Golden Shell, a natural amphitheatre with perfect exposure, galestro soils and wide day-night temperature swings. Farming is organic, and parcels are vinified separately to capture the full range of the high vineyards.

Flaccianello della Pieve, 100% Sangiovese first made in 1981, was one of the first and greatest Super Tuscans and remains the benchmark for pure Sangiovese. The 2021 is among the finest Flaccianellos of recent times and one of the leading wines of Tuscany in that vintage.

The estate treats its Chianti Classico with the same precision. In 2021 it drinks far above its tier: deep ruby, with black cherry, wild plum, violet, sweet tobacco and crushed-stone minerality, rich but never heavy, with fine-grained tannins and the depth of a Riserva. It is delicious with a bistecca now and will age for another decade.