Producer

Fuligni

I have reviewed six wines from Fuligni, from the 2019 to 2023 vintages, across Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino. All are Sangiovese. Scores range from 94 to 99, averaging 97; the highest is the 2019 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (99 points). Fuligni also features in one journal article on this site.

The Fuligni family has been present in Montalcino since the 18th century, and 2023 marked a century of the Visconti Fuligni family’s stewardship of this land. The winery’s modern reputation was built by the late Roberto Fuligni and is carried on by Maria Flora Fuligni. On the cooler eastern side of the hill, the estate makes Brunello widely considered among the most elegant and “Burgundian” in the appellation.

Fuligni wines are never heavy. They are defined by perfume, silky tannins and radiant transparency: the Brunello di Montalcino, aged in large Slavonian oak, offers wild cherry, raspberry, crushed violets and a stony minerality over ultra-fine, chalky tannins, and in 2021 it reached the very top of the vintage. The Riserva, selected from the estate’s oldest vines and aged longer in traditional oak, is the deep, classically structured counterpart; the 2019 is a brooding wine for decades. To celebrate the centenary, the family released the 2020 Riserva “Centenario,” an opulent, welcoming expression of a warm year.

Ginestreto, the Rosso di Montalcino, comes from younger vines and from the high-elevation, northeast-facing slopes of the Cottimelli estate, and is a true baby Brunello: crunchy, perfumed and precise. Whether Rosso or Riserva, a Fuligni wine is about grace and harmony rather than power.

Wine Reviews for Fuligni

2022 Fuligni “Ginestreto” Rosso di Montalcino

94

2020 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva “Centenario”

98

2019 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

99

2021 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino

99

2023 Fuligni “Ginestreto” Rosso di Montalcino

95

2020 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino

97
A hill town with a church and stone walls above wooded slopes and umbrella pines.
Vintage Reports

2021 Brunello di Montalcino – Vintage Report

If 2019 was operatic and 2020 was sunny, 2021 is the year of transparency. This is a vintage that vibrates with energy, defined by significant diurnal shifts that locked in soaring aromatics and “al dente” fruit profiles. Moving away from sheer muscle, the 2021 Brunellos are architectural and nervy, showcasing a savory, saline grip that speaks clearly of the Montalcino soil. For the collector who values elegance and tension over weight, this is a sophisticated, “intellectual” vintage that promises a fascinating evolution in the cellar.

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