2019 Gulfi “NeroBufaleffj” Nero d’Avola Terre Siciliane
In the 1990s, when much Sicilian wine was sold in bulk, Gulfi made a radical commitment to organic viticulture and
2019 Gulfi “NeroBufaleffj” Nero d’Avola Terre Siciliane Read Post »
Producer
Gulfi
I have reviewed one wine from Gulfi: the 2019 Gulfi “NeroBufaleffj” Nero d’Avola Terre Siciliane (96 points).
Gulfi is the champion of the contrada, or cru, concept for Nero d’Avola in the Val di Noto. In the 1990s, when much Sicilian wine was still sold in bulk, the estate made a radical commitment to organic farming and single-vineyard bottlings, inspired by the great estates of Burgundy and Barolo. It has since become one of the island’s most important producers.
Gulfi believes Nero d’Avola is not a monolith but a variety that changes dramatically with the soil. Its single-vineyard wines, such as Maccari, Bufaleffj and Sanloré, come from bush-trained alberello vines, farmed organically and without irrigation, and they are powerful, saline and distinct, proof that the grape can carry terroir like Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo.
“NeroBufaleffj”, from Pachino, in the historic heart of Nero d’Avola country, is the ultimate testament to that vision. The 2019 offers blackberry, dark cherry and fig, baking spice, tobacco and a smoky minerality from chalky red clay, with a full, velvety palate, silky tannins, vibrant acidity and a long, balanced finish.