2023 Michele Chiarlo “Cipressi” Nizza
If there is one producer responsible for transforming Barbera from a simple, rustic “farmer’s wine” into a world-class, cellar-worthy masterpiece,
Producer
Michele Chiarlo
I have reviewed one wine from Michele Chiarlo: the 2023 Michele Chiarlo “Cipressi” Nizza (94 points).
Michele Chiarlo did more than almost anyone to take Barbera out of the trattoria and into the cellar. Founding his house at Calamandrana in 1956, he treated Asti’s workhorse grape with the seriousness usually reserved for Nebbiolo, and his work helped build the case for the Nizza DOCG. Now a multi-generational operation, Chiarlo remains a benchmark for Piedmont producers working at scale without losing identity.
Nizza, once a subzone of Barbera d’Asti and now its own appellation, is effectively the grand cru for Barbera. Its Astian sands, a mix of calcareous marl and magnesium-rich sand, drain well and stress the vines into low yields of concentrated fruit, and because Barbera has high acidity and little tannin, the soil amplifies elegance rather than weight.
“Cipressi” comes from Tenuta La Court, Chiarlo’s amphitheatre estate in Castelnuovo Calcea: glowing ruby, with ripe red cherry, wild raspberry and sweet spice, electric, savory and silky, with terroir-driven freshness rather than heavy oak. Chiarlo’s Barolo from Cerequio and Cannubi shows the same classical restraint.