Producer

Podere Le Ripi

I have reviewed two wines from Podere Le Ripi, all from the 2019 vintage, all from Brunello di Montalcino. All are Sangiovese. Scores range from 95 to 96, averaging 96; the highest is the 2019 Podere Le Ripi “Cielo d’Ulisse” Brunello di Montalcino (96 points).

Podere Le Ripi is one of the most provocative projects in Montalcino. Founded by Francesco Illy, of the coffee family, it is famous for its “Bonsai” vineyard, planted at 62,500 vines per hectare, among the densest in the world. The philosophy is extreme: biodynamic farming, very low yields and vines forced to compete for survival. Winemaking is low-intervention, with long macerations and years of ageing in large oak casks. The wines are wild, intense and savory, a radical interpretation of Sangiovese.

The estate works the eastern slopes of Montalcino. “Amore e Magia” (love and magic), the flagship Brunello from the oldest and best-placed vines, is refined and emotional, with polished tannins, high-toned acidity and a long, mineral finish, and it can cellar for 15 to 25 years.

“Cielo d’Ulisse” comes from clay and sandstone soils at around 350 metres, where sea breezes and inland mountain air meet for slow, even ripening. The 2019 is dark and brooding, with black cherry, plum skin, herbs, earth and leather, muscular yet composed.