2019 Oddero “Bussia Mondoca” Barolo Riserva

The Oddero family’s winemaking roots in the Langhe stretch back to the late 18th century, making it one of the oldest and most historically significant estates in Barolo. Based in the hamlet of Santa Maria in La Morra, the winery is guided by Mariacristina and Mariavittoria Oddero. It is fiercely traditional: organic farming, submerged-cap fermentations and long ageing in large Austrian and Slavonian oak casks, for Barolos of aristocratic elegance, aromatic complexity and longevity.

The collection of crus reads like a map of Barolo. Monvigliero, the grand cru of Verduno, is lighter in colour but intensely aromatic — white pepper, crushed strawberries and that savory olive note typical of the village. Villero, one of Castiglione Falletto’s most historic sites, is tight, austere and limestone-driven, with firm, granular tannins. Brunate, in La Morra, behaves with the power of Serralunga, dark and balsamic with mint and truffle. Bussia Mondoca, from the upper part of the Mondoca vineyard in Monforte d’Alba, is released as a Riserva of tar, licorice and scorched earth. The estate also farms Vigna Rionda and Rocche di Castiglione.

The Barolo classico is a strategic blend of La Morra for perfume and Castiglione Falletto and Monforte for spine. In 2021 it was a perfect introduction to the vintage — vertical, crunchy and full of nervous energy.