2021 Carleone Chianti Classico

Tenuta di Carleone is the home of Sean O’Callaghan, “the Rogue of Radda,” formerly of Riecine. Some thirty years ago, after winemaking school in Germany, Sean set off across Italy on a motorcycle, landed in Chianti and never left. In 2012 he partnered with Karl and Kristine Egger, who had begun restoring the ruins of Castiglioni, a medieval estate with roots going back to 1078 that once belonged to the monks of Badia a Coltibuono. The project started in two garages; the team is now converting an old terracotta factory into its cellar.

The 20 hectares of vineyards in Radda in Chianti sit between oak forests, olive trees and streams at 450 to 750 metres, on alternating alberese and galestro. Each parcel is vinified separately, with native yeasts, heavy use of whole clusters, no fining or filtration, and a mix of concrete, stainless steel, large oak and amphora. Sean’s goal is bevibilità — that irresistible drinkability.

The Chianti Classico, from high vineyards, is lean, lifted and savory after a two-month maceration. Il Guercio, “the one-eyed rascal,” is the most experimental Sangiovese, foot-trodden whole clusters macerated for up to five months: vibrant, smoky and iron-edged. Uno, the estate’s best fruit aged in Austrian oak, is deeper and more powerful. Il Randagio, “the stray,” breaks from Sangiovese with Cabernet Franc and Merlot in steel — a joyful, easygoing wine.