Perno is a fascinating cru in Monforte. It sits on a ridge that catches the wind, often producing wines that are more austere and “intellectual” than their neighbors. Raineri’s take is stunning. It opens with notes of wild mint, iron, and crushed rose petals. On the palate, it is tense and vertical, with fine-grained tannins that grip but don’t punish. This is Barolo for purists—elegant, savory, and precise. A wine that will evolve beautifully for decades.
2021 Raineri Perno Barolo
Gianmatteo Raineri is a young, passionate grower based in the hamlet of Panerole, high in the hills of Monforte d’Alba. A true garagiste of the Langhe, he makes small quantities of wine from his family’s vineyards with a clean cellar and a talent for letting Nebbiolo speak clearly. His Barolos have the soul, structure and pedigree of the big names of Monforte, delivered with unusual transparency.
The two Barolo crus are opposites. Perno sits on a ridge that catches the wind and makes a more austere, intellectual wine: wild mint, iron and crushed rose, tense and vertical, with fine-grained tannins that grip without punishing. Castelletto faces east toward the ridge of Serralunga d’Alba, and you can feel the kinship: broader, darker and more powerful, with balsamic notes, dark cherry, licorice and firmer tannins. In 2021 both were benchmarks for site expression.
The everyday wines are just as honest. The Langhe Bianco, a blend of Arneis and Chardonnay, is crisp, saline and full of energy, and the Ca’ dei Folli Barbera is juicy, vibrant and unpretentious — Barbera as the wine that fuels Piedmont.
