Aglianico del Taburno DOCG

Often considered the “third great Aglianico” alongside Taurasi and Vulture, this appellation is located in the province of Benevento. For decades, the region was a reservoir for bulk wine production, dominated by the high-yielding tendone (pergola) training system and the planting of non-native grapes. Its renaissance began in the 1990s, leading to its elevation to DOCG status. The wine is defined by a specific local biotype known as Aglianico Amaro (Bitter Aglianico)—a name derived not from bitterness in the flavor, but from the word amaro meaning “acidic” in the local dialect, referring to the grape’s naturally high acidity. While regulations allow for a minimum of 85% Aglianico, the most serious examples are pure expressions of this distinct clone.

The Terroir The production zone encompasses fourteen townships on the slopes of the Mount Taburno massif. Unlike its volcanic cousins (Taurasi and Vulture), the terroir here is often defined by soils that are heavily clay-calcareous and sedimentary, though layers of volcanic tuff exist. The climate is characterized by significant rainfall and brutal diurnal temperature shifts—sometimes even more extreme than in Taurasi—due to the high altitude and mountainous exposure. This combination of cool climate and clay soils preserves the “Amaro” biotype’s signature acidity.

The Critical Take Aglianico del Taburno offers a distinct alternative to the power of Taurasi and the mineral intensity of Vulture. These wines are often described as having a “lighter frame” but with “delectable fragrance,” marked by savory notes of leather, herbs, and black pepper rather than just deep fruit. The high acidity gives them a nervous energy and longevity, but they can be severe in their youth. It is frequently the best-value source for serious, age-worthy Aglianico in Italy.

The Sleeping Woman The massif that gives the wine its name has a profile locals read as a reclining figure — la Dormiente del Sannio, the sleeping woman of Samnium — visible from the whole Telesina valley. It rises to nearly 1,400 metres directly behind the vineyards, and it is the reason this zone is colder, wetter and later than anywhere else Aglianico is grown seriously.

A White Province’s Red Benevento is Falanghina country: the province grows more white wine than any other in Campania and its commercial identity is built on it. Aglianico del Taburno is therefore a red DOCG inside a white economy, made by a relatively small number of producers who chose the harder crop, which is a fair part of why it has stayed cheap and why it is worth buying.

At the Table Sannita cooking: lamb and kid, cavatelli with meat ragù, pasta e fagioli, and aged caciocavallo. The acidity means it handles tomato better than most southern reds. Serve at 17–18°C and give a young bottle time.

Benchmark Producers Cantina del Taburno (their Bue Apis from century-old vines is a benchmark), Fattoria La Rivolta, Fontanavecchia, Ocone