2016 Anna Maria Abbona “San Pietro” Barolo Riserva
This is where Anna Maria proves her mastery extends to Nebbiolo. From their small plot in the “Bricco San Pietro”
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Producer
Anna Maria Abbona
I have reviewed three wines from Anna Maria Abbona, from the 2015 to 2018 vintages, across Barolo, Langhe and Dogliani. Most are Dolcetto. Scores range from 94 to 96, averaging 95; the highest is the 2016 Anna Maria Abbona “San Pietro” Barolo Riserva (96 points). Anna Maria Abbona also features in one journal article on this site.
Anna Maria Abbona is a reference point for Dolcetto, working in the steep, high hills of Farigliano in the Dogliani appellation, the true home of the grape. Her story is one of conviction. After the 1986 methanol scandal collapsed trust and grape prices, her father decided in 1989 to sell the family vineyards. Anna Maria, then a graphic designer, quit her job and, with her husband Franco Schellino, persuaded him to let them take over — betting that the future would be about drinking less, but better.
On the calcareous, marly soils of Dogliani, her Dolcetto vines, some planted in the 1930s and 40s, produce wines of startling depth: deeply coloured, structured and age-worthy, layered with blackberry, licorice, undergrowth and tobacco. San Bernardo, a steep, sunny amphitheatre, is the wine that defines the estate, a Dogliani Superiore often called a “little Barolo” for its class and structure. Cado, a Barbera and Dolcetto blend aged 18 months in French and Slovenian oak, shows how well these “other” Piedmontese grapes age.
The family also farms a small plot in the Bricco San Pietro MGA in Monforte d’Alba, where its San Pietro Barolo Riserva combines Monforte’s power with grace. Franco, a farmer and master builder, restored both the cellars at Moncucco and the cascina in Bricco San Pietro, and their sons Federico and Lorenzo are now joining the work.
2015 Anna Maria Abbona “Cado” Langhe Rosso
“Cado” is Anna Maria’s exploration of the classic Langhe blend of Barbera and Dolcetto, aged for 18 months in a
2018 Anna Maria Abbona “San Bernardo” Dogliani Superiore
This is the wine that defines the estate, and one of the greatest expressions of Dolcetto, period. “San Bernardo” is
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Anna Maria Abbona: The Queen of Dogliani (and a Master of Barolo)
When most people think of Piedmont, their minds jump straight to Nebbiolo. They think of the regal tannins of Barolo
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