2024 Fattoria Le Pupille Morellino Di Scansano
When Elisabetta Geppetti took the reins at Le Pupille in the late 1980s, southern Tuscany was largely viewed as a
I have reviewed one wine from Fattoria Le Pupille: the 2024 Fattoria Le Pupille Morellino Di Scansano (95 points).
Fattoria Le Pupille is the estate that made southern Tuscany serious. When Elisabetta Geppetti took charge in the late 1980s, the Maremma was seen as a viticultural wild west of heavy, alcoholic, structureless reds. She rewrote that story almost single-handedly, earning the title of the lady of Morellino. Saffredi, her Bordeaux-variety flagship shaped with Giacomo Tachis, proved the region could reach world-class depth.
The everyday Morellino di Scansano is arguably the greater achievement. The maritime warmth of Scansano can easily yield flabby wines, but careful vineyard work and precise picking capture a nervous energy that defies the Mediterranean sun. The winemaking is transparent and focused on Sangiovese’s crunchy red fruit, and for nearly forty years Geppetti has made sure that even this accessible wine has a vertical spine, real grip and a marine-inflected saline snap.
Le Pupille remains the reference point for Scansano and one of the defining estates of the Maremma, proof that true typicity does not require a high price.
When Elisabetta Geppetti took the reins at Le Pupille in the late 1980s, southern Tuscany was largely viewed as a