2022 Giovinco Etna Rosso
A blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from their parcels across the mountain. Aged in a combination of tonneaux
I have reviewed four wines from Giovinco, from the 2022 to 2024 vintages, across Etna, Sambuca di Sicilia and Terre Siciliane. Scores range from 91 to 94, averaging 93; the highest is the 2022 Giovinco Etna Rosso (94 points). Giovinco also features in three journal articles on this site.
Giovinco is a family estate that bridges two of Sicily’s most exciting terroirs: Sambuca di Sicilia in the west and Mount Etna in the east. The family have been vignaioli in Sambuca since their grandfather bought vineyards in 1920, and winemaker Vito Giovinco leads a clean, precise approach built on organic farming: the Sambuca vineyards have been certified organic since 2006.
Sambuca di Sicilia is a small, often overlooked DOC established in the 1970s. Its calcareous clay holds water through the hot summers and helps the grapes keep structure and acidity, and the nearby Lago Arancio cools the nights in a region where days reach 40°C. Sgarretta, a Nero d’Avola from a single vineyard, captures the grape’s generous spirit without jamminess, aged six months in large neutral casks and six in bottle. Alma is a bright, Mediterranean Catarratto.
In 2011 the family bought a three-hectare plot in Contrada San Lorenzo on Etna’s northern slope. The Etna Bianco, mostly stainless steel with about 10% aged in wood, crackles with volcanic tension, and the Etna Rosso, Nerello Mascalese with Nerello Cappuccio aged in tonneaux and large casks, is powerful yet elegant. It is a tale of two Sicilies from one family.
A blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from their parcels across the mountain. Aged in a combination of tonneaux
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