Producer

I Vigneri

I have reviewed five wines from I Vigneri, from the 2022 to 2023 vintages, all from Etna. Scores range from 93 to 96, averaging 94; the highest is the 2023 I Vigneri di Salvo Foti “Vinudilice” Etna Rosato (96 points).

I Vigneri is the project of Salvo Foti, the agronomist and winemaker who spent decades shaping Etna’s modern revival before founding it in 2009. The name revives the Maestranza dei Vigneri, a guild of vine growers established in Catania in 1435, and the philosophy is deliberately archaic: alberello bush vines on their own roots, chestnut stakes, mules on the terraces and fermentation in traditional palmenti.

The holdings span the mountain. Vigna di Milo is 100% Carricante from 800 metres on the east slope, fermented and aged in neutral casks: one of Etna’s benchmark single-vineyard whites, tightly wound, mineral and immensely age-worthy. Aurora, from high vineyards on the northern slopes, is Carricante with a touch of Minnella, taut and citrusy. Vinudilice comes from a pre-phylloxera vineyard above 1,300 metres on the mountain’s northern edge, a field blend of red and white grapes co-planted and co-fermented into an extraordinary, weightless rosato.

Among the reds, the I Vigneri Etna Rosso blends Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from bush vines and ages in large casks, while Vinupetra comes from a prized parcel of some of Etna’s oldest vines in the Calderara Sottana contrada, fermented with native yeasts into a serious, cellar-worthy wine of sour cherry, smoke and incense. The wines are ethereal, savory and unmistakably volcanic.

Wine Reviews for I Vigneri

2022 I Vigneri di Salvo Foti “Vinupetra” Etna Rosso

94

2023 I Vigneri di Salvo Foti “Aurora” Etna Bianco

93

2023 I Vigneri di Salvo Foti “I Vigneri” Etna Rosso

94

2023 I Vigneri di Salvo Foti “Vinudilice” Etna Rosato

96

2022 I Vigneri di Salvo Foti “Vigna di Milo” Etna Bianco Superiore

94
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