Producer

Nervi-Conterno

I have reviewed five wines from Nervi-Conterno, from the 2020 to 2025 vintages, across Gattinara and Piemonte. All are Nebbiolo. Scores range from 94 to 98, averaging 96; the highest is the 2020 Nervi-Conterno “Vigna Molsino” Gattinara (98 points).

Nervi, founded in 1906, is the oldest winery in the Gattinara appellation. In 2018 it was bought by Roberto Conterno of Giacomo Conterno, and under his perfectionist guidance the wines have gained even greater precision, confirming Alto Piemonte as a serious rival to Barolo.

Gattinara is far north, close to the Alps, with a cooler climate than the Langhe, and its Nebbiolo — locally Spanna — grows on volcanic porphyry rather than limestone, giving a fresher, more mineral expression. As in Serralunga, Conterno ages the wines only in Slavonian oak. The Gattinara blends several sites across the estate and is the entry point to his Nebbiolos from the north.

The two single vineyards complement each other. Vigna Valferana, higher and slightly sandier, is floral and ethereal — violet, raspberry, herbs and orange, almost Burgundian. Vigna Molsino sits in an amphitheatre with ideal exposure and more clay than is usual in Gattinara, and makes the most powerful and age-worthy wine of the estate, dark cherry, licorice and dried rose on a firm frame. Il Rosato, from the same volcanic soils, is a bone-dry, saline and structured rosé.

Wine Reviews for Nervi-Conterno

2025 Nervi-Conterno “Il Rosato” Vino Nebbiolo Rosato

94

2024 Nervi-Conterno “Il Rosato” Piemonte Rosato

96

2020 Nervi-Conterno “Vigna Valferana” Gattinara

97

2020 Nervi-Conterno “Vigna Molsino” Gattinara

98

2021 Nervi-Conterno Gattinara

94
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