Gattinara DOCG

Located in the “Piedmont Nord” (Northern Piedmont) area, Gattinara is one of the most prestigious appellations for Nebbiolo outside of the Langhe. It is situated on the hills flanking the Sesia River, near its outlet into the Po Valley. The wine has a long history of rivalry with Barolo and Barbaresco; while the latter are required to be 100% Nebbiolo, Gattinara traditionally allows for the blending of small percentages of other local varieties, though it remains Nebbiolo-dominant (minimum 90% according to current regulations). The local name for the Nebbiolo grape here is Spanna.

The Terroir The terroir of Gattinara is radically different from the calcareous marls of Barolo. The vineyards sit on an ancient rocky basement consisting of Mesozoic rocks and Permian volcanites (porphyries), covered by loose, fertile soils of glacial origin.

• Volcanic Soil: This acidic, mineral-rich volcanic soil (porphyry) gives the wine a distinct ferrous, mineral character and high acidity, distinguishing it from the fleshier wines of the Langhe.
• Climate: The climate is temperate and sub-continental, but the area generally receives higher rainfall on the mountain slopes compared to the plains below.

Grape Varieties

• Nebbiolo (Spanna): The backbone of the wine (min. 90%).
• Blending Partners: Up to 10% of the blend can be composed of authorized local varieties. Historically and practically, these are often Vespolina (for spice) and Uva Rara (for fruit/softness), though Croatina is also found in the region. Note: There is a historical synonym “Nebbiolo di Gattinara” which actually refers to the Croatina grape, not Nebbiolo; however, the base of the DOCG wine is true Nebbiolo (Spanna).

The Critical Take Gattinara is celebrated for its longevity and nervous, mineral structure. Ian D’Agata notes that while it is often blended, pure versions exist and are “outstanding”. The volcanic soils tend to produce wines that are lighter in color and body than Barolo but possess a “gracefulness and refinement” with intense aromas of red fruit and minerals.

The Rules Gattinara demands a minimum of three years’ aging before release, at least one of them in wood; the Riserva requires four years with two in wood. That is longer than most buyers expect from a zone this obscure, and it explains why young Gattinara so often shows tannin before fruit. The appellation is also tiny — well under a hundred hectares under vine, a fraction of the Langhe — having never recovered from phylloxera, two world wars, and the pull of the Biella textile industry, which drew growers off the hills through the twentieth century.

At the Table The Alto Piemonte pairings hold: tapulon, panissa — the local risotto with beans and salami — braised beef, and the washed-rind cheeses of the northern valleys. Gattinara has the acidity to cut fat and the ferrous note to stand beside game. Serve at 17–18°C and decant anything under ten years old. Good vintages hold twenty-five years and frequently need half that before they open at all.

Benchmark Producers Antoniolo (noted for single-vineyard crus like Osso San Grato and San Francesco). Travaglini (famous for their unique crooked bottle shape)