Grape variety

Vespolina

Piedmont's 'little wasp' grape—a rare, tannic native of Novara contributing structure and bitter-herbal complexity to the Ghemme and Boca blends.

Vespolina is a grape variety most associated in Italy with Boca, Ghemme, Lessona and Coste della Sesia. I have reviewed five wines made from it.

Pink-purple Vespolina bunches hanging in quantity beneath a leafy vine canopy.

The Peppery Red of Alto Piemonte Vespolina is a distinctive native red grape of northern Piedmont, the traditional blending partner of Nebbiolo in the wines of the Alto Piemonte. Prized for its vivid peppery spice and bright red fruit, it adds perfume and lift to the firm, structured Nebbiolo of the region, and is increasingly bottled on its own as a fragrant, characterful varietal. It is one of the most charming and aromatic of the north’s lesser-known native reds.

Origins and Lineage Vespolina is an old variety of northern Piedmont and Lombardy, and DNA research has revealed a close genetic relationship to Nebbiolo, of which it appears to be an offspring. This noble parentage helps explain its affinity with Nebbiolo in the vineyard and the blend, as well as its perfumed, spicy character and the bright acidity that it shares with its more famous relative.

A Grape of the Alto Piemonte Vespolina’s heartland is the Alto Piemonte — the hills of northern Piedmont around Gattinara, Ghemme and the Colline Novaresi — where Nebbiolo (here called Spanna) reigns and the acidic, volcanic and glacial soils give the wines their structure and freshness. Vespolina is grown alongside Spanna as a traditional blending partner and, increasingly, as a variety in its own right.

In the Vineyard A vigorous, fairly early-ripening variety, Vespolina ripens ahead of Nebbiolo, which made it a practical and complementary blending partner in the cool northern climate. Its perfumed, peppery character develops well on the region’s hillside sites, and careful growers value it for the aromatic lift and bright fruit it brings to the firmer, later-ripening Spanna.

Appearance and Structure Vespolina gives medium-coloured, medium-bodied wines with moderate, fine tannins and bright, fresh acidity. It is a grape of perfume and freshness rather than power, contributing aromatic lift, spice and red fruit; on its own it makes fragrant, lively, food-friendly reds, while in the blend it brightens and perfumes the structured Nebbiolo.

Aromatic Profile The signature is fresh red fruit — red cherry and raspberry — lifted by a pronounced note of black and white pepper, violets, dried herbs and a savoury, spicy character. The peppery spice is the grape’s calling card, giving even its blends a distinctive aromatic lift that complements the tar-and-rose perfume of its relative Nebbiolo.

In the Cellar Vespolina is used both as a perfuming, spicing blending partner to Nebbiolo in the Alto Piemonte and as a fresh, fragrant varietal wine, usually made with restrained oak to preserve its peppery aromatics and bright fruit. The modern interest in the region’s native grapes has seen more producers bottle it on its own, showcasing its distinctive character.

Key Expressions

  • Alto Piemonte blends: the traditional perfuming partner to Nebbiolo (Spanna) in Gattinara, Ghemme and beyond.
  • Colline Novaresi Vespolina: fresh, peppery, fragrant varietal reds from northern Piedmont.
  • Oltrepò Pavese Ughetta: the same grape under a local name in neighbouring Lombardy.
  • Artisan varietal bottlings: characterful wines showcasing the grape’s spice and perfume.

The Question of Aging Much Vespolina is made for fresh, fragrant, relatively early drinking, prized for the vivid pepper and red fruit at their best in youth. As part of an Alto Piemonte blend it shares in the longevity of those structured wines, and the best structured varietal examples can develop savoury complexity over several years.

At the Table Its pepper, moderate tannin and fresh acidity make Vespolina a versatile and distinctive food red: roast and grilled meats, game, peppered and spiced dishes, cured meats and medium cheeses, as well as the hearty cuisine of northern Piedmont. The peppery character flatters herb-rich and spiced cooking especially well.

Why It Matters Vespolina is the fragrant, peppery companion of the Alto Piemonte — a relative of Nebbiolo that brings spice and aromatic lift to the region’s structured reds, and that is increasingly celebrated as a charming, distinctive varietal in the modern rediscovery of northern Piedmont’s native grapes.

Reviews for Vespolina

2016 Vallana “Campi Raudii” Vino Rosso (Library Release)

94

2013 Proprietà Sperino Lessona

94

2024 Proprietà Sperino “Rosa del Rosa” Piemonte Rosato

96

2017 Rovellotti “Chioso dei Pomi” Ghemme

98

2020 Noah “Rocce di Luce” Bramaterra Nebbiolo

96

Scroll to Top