Ghemme DOCG

Located in the “Piedmont Nord” (Northern Piedmont) sector, Ghemme is one of the most prestigious red wine appellations of the region alongside its neighbor, Gattinara. The production zone is situated on the hills flanking the Sesia River, opposite Gattinara. The wine is based on the Nebbiolo grape, known locally as Spanna. Unlike Barolo and Barbaresco, which mandate 100% Nebbiolo, Ghemme is part of a tradition in Northern Piedmont that allows for blending with other indigenous varieties to add color, spice, and balance.

The Terroir The terroir of Ghemme is geologically distinct from the calcareous marls of the Langhe. The vineyards sit on a rocky substratum covered by fluvio-glacial deposits (morainic soils).

• Soil Composition: The soil is complex, containing ultra-basic green rocks, granite, and Permian porphyries (volcanic origin), which contribute to the wine’s mineral profile.
• Climate: The climate is temperate and sub-continental. The area generally experiences cold winters and higher rainfall on the mountain slopes compared to the lower plains.

Grape Varieties Current regulations for Ghemme DOCG stipulate the following composition:

• Nebbiolo (Spanna): Minimum 85%.
• Blending Partners: Up to 15% can be composed of Vespolina and/or Uva Rara.

• Vespolina: A native variety and offspring of Nebbiolo, Vespolina is valued for adding color, tannins, and distinctive spicy notes of black pepper, cinnamon, and balsamic herbs to the blend.
• Uva Rara: Often used to soften the aggressive tannins of Nebbiolo.

The Critical Take Ghemme represents the “other” face of Nebbiolo. While these wines have historically lived in the shadow of the Langhe, the cooler climate of Northern Piedmont is making them increasingly sought after in the era of global warming. The wines are known for their structure and longevity, capable of aging for decades. While some producers bottle pure Nebbiolo, the traditional blend remains the standard, creating a wine that is often described as savory and mineral-driven.

At the Table The Alto Piemonte table, which is heavier than the Langhe: panissa — the local risotto with beans and salami — braised beef, game, and the washed-rind and blue cheeses of the northern valleys. Ghemme has the acidity to cut fat and enough tannin for red meat. Decant anything under ten years old and serve at 17–18°C. Good vintages will hold twenty-five years, and the wine is routinely sold long before it is ready to drink, which is both the frustration of the appellation and, for anyone willing to wait, the opportunity in it.

Benchmark Producers Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo (specifically the Ghemme Collis Breclamae). Torraccia del Piantavigna. Vini Ioppa.