I have reviewed seven wines from San Lorenzo, from the 2018 to 2025 vintages, across Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Marche and Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva. Scores range from 92 to 97, averaging 94; the highest is the 2022 San Lorenzo “Campo Delle Oche” Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Classico Riserva (97 points). San Lorenzo also features in one journal article on this site.
Fattoria San Lorenzo is the reference point for age-worthy Verdicchio, run by the larger-than-life Natalino Crognaletti. In the clay-and-limestone hills of the Castelli di Jesi, at Montecarotto in the Marche, he farms biodynamically — not for certification or fashion, but because it is the only way that makes sense to him — on a farm where geese roam the vineyards and time moves slowly. He believes in extended lees ageing and minimal intervention, and his wines can be wild in youth but have a textural depth, saline energy and capacity to age that set them apart.
The Verdicchios climb in intensity. Vigna di Gino, named for Natalino’s father, is the freshest expression of the house, with green almond, citrus pith and a saline kick. Le Oche, a single vineyard, is richer and more powerful, with stone fruit, hazelnut and stony minerality that will age for a decade or more. Campo delle Oche, the Riserva from the Field of Geese, is his masterpiece: dense, waxy and expansive, carried by brilliant acidity and finishing with bitter almond and sea salt. The flagship Il San Lorenzo is released only after a decade or more in cement and bottle.
Natalino is just as gifted with red grapes. The Vigna di Gino Rosso blends Montepulciano and Sangiovese into an honest, savory everyday red, while Solleone, the estate’s top red, is a structured Montepulciano of dried plum, leather and tobacco built for the long haul. For me these are some of the most soulful wines being made in Italy.
Named for Natalino’s father, Gino, this is the freshest expression of the estate, but it’s far from simple. It carries
2025 San Lorenzo “Vigna Di Gino” Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Classico Read Post »
Natalino Crognaletti is an absolute legend in Le Marche, and his biodynamic estate, Fattoria San Lorenzo, produces what are undeniably
2022 San Lorenzo “Campo Delle Oche” Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Classico Riserva Read Post »
The red counterpart to the Gino Verdicchio, this is a rustic and soulful blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese. It’s full
2024 San Lorenzo “Vigna Di Gino” Marche Rosso Montepulciano Sangiovese Read Post »
A benchmark for the entire region. “Le Oche” is a single-vineyard bottling known for its incredible depth and complexity. Richer
2024 San Lorenzo “Le Oche” Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Classico Read Post »
Every wine buyer has a handful of producers that are more than just names in a portfolio. They are benchmarks,
My Favorite Rebel: The Unforgettable Wines of Natalino Crognaletti Read Post »
The estate’s top red, “Solleone” (“Scorching Sun”) is a powerful and structured wine built for the long haul. The 2018
Named for Natalino’s father, Gino, this is the freshest expression of the estate, but it’s far from simple. It carries
2024 San Lorenzo Vigna Di Gino Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Classico Read Post »
The red counterpart to the Gino Verdicchio, this is a rustic and soulful blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese. It’s full
