2022 Barbaresco – Vintage Report
The 2022 vintage in Barbaresco is a fascinating paradox. On paper, it was a year that should have produced “cooked,”
Producer
Bruno Giacosa
I have reviewed four wines from Bruno Giacosa, from the 1986 to 2023 vintages, across Barolo, Nebbiolo d'Alba and Roero. Most are Nebbiolo. Scores range from 94 to 96, averaging 95; the highest is the 2023 Bruno Giacosa “Valmaggiore” Nebbiolo d’Alba (96 points). Bruno Giacosa also features in three journal articles on this site.
Bruno Giacosa, known as “the Genius of Neive,” left a legacy that remains a gold standard for Nebbiolo. Born in Neive in 1929, he grew up in a family of commercianti: his grandfather Carlo and father Mario bought grapes from the best local growers rather than owning land. In 1961, against his father’s wishes, he began bottling wine under his own name, and he became a pioneer of single-vineyard Barbaresco and Barolo at a time when blends were the norm.
Absolute quality was his only rule. If a vintage did not live up to his standards, he refused to bottle his top crus and sold the wine off in bulk — most famously in 2006, when he explained simply, “non me la sento,” “I don’t feel like it.” In 1982 he bought the Falletto vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba, the source of his most powerful Barolos, and in 1996 parcels in Asili and Rabajà in Barbaresco. The wines are aged in large neutral oak casks. Wines from purchased grapes carry the Casa Vinicola name, estate wines the Azienda Agricola Falletto name, and in the most exceptional vintages the best casks are bottled as Riserva under the famous red label.
Bruno Giacosa died in 2018, and his daughter Bruna continues his philosophy. The range reaches beyond the great crus: the Valmaggiore Nebbiolo d’Alba, from a steep, almost pure sand amphitheatre in the Roero, is perfumed and silky, and the Roero Arneis is the benchmark for the grape. Even in the heat of 2022, the Asili showed why Giacosa’s parcels there remain a reference for elegance.
New cellar purchased: Time Capsule from the Langhe
We just secured a cellar that frankly shouldn’t exist. This is a rare glimpse into the golden era of traditional Barolo, featuring pristine verticals of Bartolo Mascarello (including the legendary 1961 and 1978 Magnums), Bruno Giacosa’s Red Labels, and Giuseppe Rinaldi. Plus, we found a “miracle” parcel of 1976 & 1978 Borgogno Riserva—perfectly aged history at an unbeatable price. These are not just wines; they are survivors.
New cellar purchased: Time Capsule from the Langhe Read Post »
1986 Bruno Giacosa “Falletto di Serralunga” Barolo Riserva
The Red Label. Giacosa only made the Red Label Riserva when he believed the wine was perfect. 1986 was a
1986 Bruno Giacosa “Falletto di Serralunga” Barolo Riserva Read Post »
1988 Bruno Giacosa “Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba” Barolo (1.5L)
This is insanity. 1988 is a classic, structured, “cool” vintage—my personal favorite kind. But to find them in Magnum, and
1988 Bruno Giacosa “Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba” Barolo (1.5L) Read Post »
2023 Bruno Giacosa “Valmaggiore” Nebbiolo d’Alba
The 2023 Bruno Giacosa “Valmaggiore” Nebbiolo d’Alba is, year in and year out, one of the most distinguished and sought-after
2023 Bruno Giacosa “Valmaggiore” Nebbiolo d’Alba Read Post »
From Grandfather’s Cellar to Family Prodigy
Born in 1929 in the village of Neive, Bruno Giacosa was destined for a life in wine. His grandfather, Carlo,
2023 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis
The 2023 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis serves is the definitive benchmark for Roero Arneis. Bruno Giacosa achieved international fame for