2024 Casa d’Ambra Falanghina Ischia
Falanghina is the great workhorse of Campania, but on Ischia, it transforms into something wilder and more distinct. Grown on
I have reviewed two wines from Casa d'Ambra, all from the 2024 vintage, all from Ischia. Scores range from 94 to 96, averaging 95; the highest is the 2024 Casa d’Ambra “Frassitelli” Ischia Biancolella (96 points). Casa d'Ambra also features in two journal articles on this site.
Since 1888, Casa d’Ambra has been the guardian of viticulture on the volcanic island of Ischia. Francesco D’Ambra, known to islanders as “Don Ciccio”, founded the estate; his sons Mario, Michele and Salvatore put Ischia on the map, winning the DOC designation for its wines in 1966 and modernising the native Biancolella, Forastera and Per’ ‘e Palummo. Today the fourth generation leads: oenologist Andrea D’Ambra with his daughters Marina and Sara, herself an oenologist.
Viticulture here is called “heroic” as a literal description of the work. The vines cling to hand-carved terraces on cliffs above the sea, rooted in soft, porous volcanic tuff, and the family has resisted the easier path of tourism to preserve the island’s wine culture.
Frassitelli, a single four-hectare vineyard at 600 metres so steep that harvest often relies on a monorail, is Ischia’s grand cru: its Biancolella is electric, with broom flowers, wild fennel, crushed stone and a tense, saline palate. The Falanghina trades the tropical lushness of the mainland for citrus peel, green apple, a smoky undertone and a mouthwatering salty finish.
Falanghina is the great workhorse of Campania, but on Ischia, it transforms into something wilder and more distinct. Grown on
If Ischia has a “Grand Cru,” this is it. Frassitelli is a single, four-hectare vineyard perched a breathtaking 600 meters
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