Producer

Ettore Germano

I have reviewed two wines from Ettore Germano, from the 2013 to 2015 vintages, all from Barolo. All are Nebbiolo. Scores range from 96 to 96, averaging 96; the highest is the 2015 Ettore Germano “Cerretta” Barolo (96 points).

Ettore Germano sits in Serralunga d’Alba, the commune that gives Barolo its iron spine. Sergio Germano took over from his father in the late 1980s and has built a portfolio of Serralunga crus, Cerretta, Prapò and Lazzarito, that trade in structure rather than flash. Germano also farms high-altitude vineyards in Cigliè, producing a serious Riesling and Nascetta that few expect from Barolo country. The house style is classical, patient and quietly uncompromising.

Cerretta has a distinctly dark personality. In the warm 2015 vintage it is smooth and succulent, with raspberry compote, licorice and wild herbs, the signature Serralunga iron and smoke on the finish, and polished tannins.

Prapò is the estate’s grand cru: chiseled, savory and built for long cellaring. The 2013, from a classic, long-season vintage, offers crushed cranberry, balsamic and ground clove, vibrant and nervous, and shows exactly what savory Barolo is about.