Longanesi
A rare red native to Romagna's Bagnacavallo, producing robust, structured wines marketed under the distinctive Bursòn brand.
Longanesi, also known as Bursòn, is a grape variety most associated in Italy with Romagna and Rubicone. I have reviewed one wine made from it.
Longanesi is one of Italy’s most charming modern discoveries, a red grape whose entire existence traces back to a single wild vine found climbing an oak tree in the Romagna countryside. Bottled under the evocative name Bursôn, it produces deep, structured and richly fruited reds that have become a proud emblem of the plains around Ravenna. For lovers of rare local grapes with a good story, Longanesi is an irresistible find.
Origins and history Uva Longanesi is native to Boncellino, a tiny hamlet of Bagnacavallo in the province of Ravenna, in Emilia-Romagna. Its story begins in the mid-twentieth century, when the Longanesi family noticed a vigorous wild vine climbing around an oak tree on their farm. Recognising its potential, Aldo Longanesi planted the world’s first vineyard of the grape in the 1950s, and from that single mother plant an entire variety was born.
The birth of Bursôn Longanesi was officially entered into the National Register of Grapevine Varieties in 2000, a formal recognition of a grape that had grown from one chance seedling. The wine made from it is protected under the name Bursôn, safeguarded by a local consortium since 1997. This transformation from wild curiosity to registered variety and branded wine is one of the more remarkable recent chapters in Italian viticulture.
Appearance and structure Longanesi yields structured, full-bodied reds of deep ruby colour with vibrant violet reflections. The wines are bold and richly textured, with fresh acidity, firm tannins and a notably high alcohol content that gives them warmth and power. A characteristic slight bitterness on the finish adds grip and definition, marking the grape out as a serious, substantial red.
Aromatic profile The bouquet is intensely fruity, led by wild red berries and black cherry with subtle floral hints of violet. In the richer, dried-grape versions the aromas deepen into spice, cocoa and darker, jammy fruit. The overall impression is broad, generous and warm, a bold and characterful red that reflects both the grape’s structure and the sun-baked Romagna plain.
In the vineyard Longanesi produces medium-to-large spherical black berries with blue-black skins, in elongated, often winged clusters. It grows on the alluvial plains around Bagnacavallo, adapting well to the local terroir that first nurtured its wild ancestor. Its vigour and resilience, hinted at by the original vine’s ability to thrive untended up an oak, make it a dependable grape for the growers who have championed its revival.
In the cellar Bursôn is made in two distinct styles. The Blue Label, or Etichetta Blu, is produced without drying the grapes and uses carbonic maceration to give a fresher, fruitier wine. The prestigious Black Label, or Etichetta Nera, is made from partially dried grapes in the appassimento style and aged for at least two years in small oak barrels, yielding a concentrated, powerful and structured wine.
Key expressions
- Bursôn Etichetta Blu, fresher and fruit-driven via carbonic maceration.
- Bursôn Etichetta Nera, rich, dried-grape and barrel-aged.
- Deeply coloured, structured varietal reds of Romagna.
- Bold, high-alcohol wines for the hearty local table.
The question of aging Longanesi’s structure, tannin and concentration give it genuine ageing potential, especially in the appassimento Black Label style. These richer wines evolve over several years, their dried-fruit, spice and cocoa notes deepening as the tannins soften and integrate. The fresher Blue Label is best enjoyed younger, while the barrel-aged versions reward patience in the cellar.
At the table With its body, tannin and warmth, Longanesi is a natural partner for the rich cuisine of Romagna, from grilled and roasted meats to game, wild boar ragù and mature cheeses. Its structure and acidity cut cleanly through fatty, robust dishes, while its fruit flatters spiced and slow-cooked fare. Serve at cool room temperature to show its bold, generous character.
Why it matters Longanesi is proof that even in the modern era a whole grape variety can spring from a single wild vine and a grower’s curiosity. Its journey from an oak tree in Boncellino to a registered variety and protected wine makes it one of Italy’s most engaging viticultural stories. For those who love discovering rare local reds, Bursôn offers both a great tale and a genuinely delicious wine.