In the pantheon of Bolgheri, Ornellaia has always represented the peak of opulence and structural power. However, the 2023 release marks a fascinating stylistic shift—a “re-calibration” of the estate’s DNA. Dubbed “La Vitalità” (Vitality), this vintage represents the first full production cycle under the guidance of winemaker Marco Balsimelli.
Having come from the hallowed cellars of Bordeaux, Balsimelli is steering the estate toward a more vertical, transparent, and finessed expression of the coast. Ornellaia currently sits at Number 17 in the Power 100 most traded wine, climbing 27 places in a single year—ranking only behind Tenuta San Guido and Gaja among the top Italian brands.
This is the vintage not to miss here,
The 2023 Vintage: Patient paid
The 2023 growing season was a masterclass in patience. The early year was plagued by high mildew pressure, requiring fanatical attention in the vineyards. However, the script flipped in September, which provided near-perfect ripening conditions.
- The Style: Balsimelli has leaned into “understatement,” moving away from broad-shouldered power in favor of aromatic lift and “crunchy” fruit profiles.
- The Result: A wine that Monica Larner calls “meticulously made” and one that captures the coastal terroir with remarkable elegance.
The Wine Profiles
2023 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia “Ornellaia” Toscana (Red)
98 Points – Monica Larner (Wine Advocate) This is a historic score for the estate, tying the legendary 2016 as Larner’s highest-rated vintage of Ornellaia.
- A classic Bolgheri assemblage of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Petit Verdot. A complex, botanical nose defined by dark hedgerow berries, Mediterranean herbs (thyme and rosemary), rose petals, and a cooling hint of petrichor. Slender and vertical on the palate. The tannins are velvety and polished, but they possess a firm ripeness that promises long-term cellar potential. Expansive and savory, with a “lipsmacking” succulence that keeps the wine feeling weightless despite its intensity.
2023 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia “Ornellaia” Bianco
94 Points – Monica Larner
Arguably Italy’s most ambitious white wine, the 2023 Bianco continues to redefine what Sauvignon Blanc can achieve in the Mediterranean.
- This is a “light-filled” wine that balances Bolgheri’s sunshine with a profound marine influence. Notes of grapefruit, peach blossom, and exotic fruit are underscored by a sophisticated hint of roasted hazelnut. Full and round in density, yet sliced by a refreshing citrus nerve and notes of white pepper and ginger. An enduring, briny minerality that highlights its Sauvignon Blanc identity.
Market Analysis: The Buyer’s Perspective
From a market standpoint, the 2023 release is one of the most strategically positioned Ornellaia offers in recent years.
- Pricing: Released at £1,696 ($2,252) per 12×75, which is an 8.3% decrease from the 2022 release price in GBP terms.
- Relative Value: Because it carries a 98-point score, the 2023 enters the market 13.5% below the trading price of the 2016—the only other recent vintage with an equivalent rating.
While the secondary market for recent vintages has seen a 12-18% drop post-release, the combination of a lower entry price and a “top-tier” score makes the 2023 a rare “Blue Chip” buy with significant upside.