I have reviewed 18 wines from Produttori del Barbaresco, from the 2020 to 2021 vintages, all from Barbaresco. All are Nebbiolo. Scores range from 94 to 98, averaging 96; the highest is the 2021 Produttori del Barbaresco Muncagota Barbaresco Riserva (98 points). Produttori del Barbaresco also features in two journal articles on this site.
Produttori del Barbaresco is widely considered the greatest cooperative winery in the world. It was born of necessity in 1958: with no Barbaresco DOCG yet, growers were selling their grapes to Barolo houses for very little, and the parish priest, Don Fiorino Marengo, persuaded 19 of them to make wine together. Today more than 50 families farm about 100 hectares of the appellation’s best vineyards, and the cooperative, led by Aldo Vacca, remains strictly democratic and strictly local — only members’ Barbaresco fruit goes into the bottle.
The winemaking is traditional: long macerations and large Slavonian oak botti, used since the beginning. The Barbaresco itself is the benchmark and one of the great values in European wine. In worthy vintages the Riservas are released from nine crus, aged for about thirty months in botti and a further year in bottle, and they read like a map of the appellation: Ovello, the northernmost and largest, high-toned and energetic; Montefico, compact and transparent; Montestefano, the densest and darkest, closest to Barolo in power; Pajè, slow to unfold; Pora, open and floral on sandy soils near the Tanaro; Rio Sordo, round and soft; Muncagota, bright and spicy; and Rabajà, the crown jewel, uniting strength and refinement. Asili completes the nine.
What I value most is how honestly the wines show both site and year. The 2021 Riservas are structured and built to age; the 2020s, a touch warmer and bolder, arrive already resolved and ready to drink. In 2022 the cooperative again bottled all nine.
Long the Produttori’s most elegant holding, a village MGA of medium body and real aromatic finesse. The warmth of 2020
2020 Produttori del Barbaresco “Montefico” Barbaresco Riserva Read Post »
Southwest-facing and historically among the appellation’s most compelling sites, structured and aromatic in equal measure. In 2020, warmer and a
2020 Produttori del Barbaresco “Montestefano” Barbaresco Riserva Read Post »
Pajè is the slow one, a southeast-facing site associated with the longest, most traditional ageing in Barbaresco. The warmth and
2020 Produttori del Barbaresco “Pajè” Barbaresco Riserva Read Post »
Pora faces southwest, and its reputation on this side of the ridge is for robust structure and dark fruit. 2020
2020 Produttori del Barbaresco “Pora” Barbaresco Riserva Read Post »
Rio Sordo presents itself as a smooth and full-bodied wine with dark fruit flavors and a wide mouthfeel. The wine
2020 Produttori del Barbaresco “Rio Sordo” Barbaresco Riserva Read Post »
Rabajà is the power counterpart to Asili — south-facing, built for concentration and structural weight. 2020 runs in line with
2020 Produttori del Barbaresco “Rabajà” Barbaresco Riserva Read Post »
Barbaresco’s northernmost and largest cru, Ovello, creates structured Barbaresco wines that display high tones. The wine presents red fruit along
2020 Produttori del Barbaresco “Ovello” Barbaresco Riserva Read Post »
Muncagota wine features a balanced character and bright personality which combines freshness with spicy notes. The wine exhibits detailed characteristics
2020 Produttori del Barbaresco “Muncagota” Barbaresco Riserva Read Post »
The 2022 vintage in Barbaresco is a fascinating paradox. On paper, it was a year that should have produced “cooked,”
Barbaresco’s northernmost and largest cru, Ovello, creates structured Barbaresco wines that display high tones. The wine presents red fruit along
2021 Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello Barbaresco Riserva Read Post »
