Producer

Tenuta di Biserno

I have reviewed two wines from Tenuta di Biserno, from the 2020 to 2022 vintages, all from Toscana. All are Cabernet Franc. Scores range from 96 to 97, averaging 97; the highest is the 2020 Tenuta di Biserno “Biserno” Toscana (97 points).

Tenuta di Biserno is the estate of Lodovico Antinori, the man who created Ornellaia. It lies in Bibbona, on the Tuscan coast just north of Bolgheri, sharing its terroir but with a geological twist of more clay and conglomerate. Cabernet Franc is the focus and reaches remarkable complexity in these soils. The wines, including “Il Pino” and the flagship “Biserno”, are voluptuous, dark and spicy, often wilder than the polished wines of Bolgheri.

“Biserno” blends Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, aged in French oak that adds complexity without masking the fruit. Coastal influences bring minerality and freshness. The 2020 is rich and polished, with black plum, cherry, cedar, tobacco and graphite, fine tannins and lively acidity carrying dark fruit, chocolate and Mediterranean herbs. The sunny, warm 2022 is deeper still, with blackberry, crushed cherry and roasted espresso on velvety tannins and a long finish. It is perhaps the most underrated wine of the Antinori family.