Grape variety

Sangiovese

Italy’s most planted and shapeshifting grape—capable of producing the rustic joy of Chianti and the immortal power of Brunello.

Sangiovese is a grape variety most associated in Italy with Brunello di Montalcino, Carmignano, Chianti and Chianti Classico. I have reviewed 134 wines made from it.

A ripe bunch of dark blue-purple Sangiovese grapes hanging on the vine.

Italy’s Most Planted Grape Sangiovese is the beating heart of central Italian wine and the most widely planted red variety in the country. Its name is usually traced to sanguis Jovis — “the blood of Jove” — a Latin flourish that hints at both its antiquity and the central role it has played in Tuscan life for centuries. From Chianti to Montalcino to the Adriatic coast of Romagna, it is the grape that defines a third of Italy.

A Grape of Many Faces Few varieties are as genetically restless. Sangiovese mutates readily, and over centuries growers have selected dozens of distinct clones and biotypes — known locally as Sangiovese Grosso in Montalcino (where it becomes Brunello), Prugnolo Gentile in Montepulciano, and Morellino in the Maremma. This clonal diversity, combined with extreme site-sensitivity, means Sangiovese can taste like five different grapes depending on where it grows. One name on that list does not belong: Sangiovese Forte, or Sanforte, sounds like another biotype but is a distinct variety with its own entry in the National Registry. It ripens considerably earlier than Sangiovese and accumulates sugar readily, which is why it was planted in Lamole, one of the highest and coolest corners of Chianti Classico, to lift wines that struggled to ripen there.

Appearance and Structure In the glass Sangiovese is typically medium ruby, rarely deeply saturated, and quick to develop garnet tones. Its hallmark is a combination of bright, mouth-watering acidity and firm, slightly grippy tannins — a savoury, structural profile that makes it one of the great food wines of the world rather than a hedonistic crowd-pleaser.

Aromatic Profile The signature is red fruit and earth: sour cherry, red plum and dried strawberry lifted by tomato leaf, dried herbs, balsamic, leather and a characteristic note of warm terracotta. With age it gains tobacco, dried flowers, tea leaf and forest floor. It is rarely opulent; its appeal lies in tension, perfume and savour.

A Grape that Demands Sun and Site Sangiovese ripens late and unevenly, and needs warmth and good exposure to bring its tannins to full maturity — under-ripe, it turns harsh and vegetal. It thrives on the galestro (flaky marl) and alberese (limestone) soils of the Tuscan hills, which lend it minerality and lift. Altitude and aspect are decisive, which is why Tuscany, like Piedmont, has moved steadily toward single-vineyard bottlings.

In the Cellar Historically blended with white grapes and softer reds under the old Chianti recipe, modern Sangiovese is increasingly bottled pure or with small amounts of native Canaiolo and Colorino, or international Cabernet and Merlot. Ageing ranges from neutral large botti — preserving its perfume and savoury edge — to French barrique, which rounds its tannins and deepens colour at the risk of masking varietal character.

Key Expressions

  • Chianti Classico: the historic heartland between Florence and Siena; medium-bodied, savoury and structured, now expressed through the Gran Selezione tier and the village-like UGA sub-zones.
  • Brunello di Montalcino: the most powerful and long-lived expression, 100% Sangiovese Grosso, capable of decades in the cellar.
  • Vino Nobile di Montepulciano: plush and approachable, built on the Prugnolo Gentile clone.
  • Morellino di Scansano & the Maremma: warmer coastal sites giving riper, softer, earlier-drinking wines.
  • Romagna: the grape’s other home on the Adriatic side, producing fresher, more everyday styles.

The Question of Aging The best Sangiovese — Brunello and serious Chianti Classico Riserva — ages superbly, its acidity and tannin acting as a preservative while the fruit slowly turns to dried cherry, leather, tobacco and undergrowth. Lesser examples are built for the table within a few years of release.

At the Table No grape is more obligingly Italian at dinner. Sangiovese’s acidity cuts tomato, its tannins meet grilled meat, and its savour flatters cured salumi, aged pecorino, bistecca alla fiorentina and wild boar ragù. It is arguably the most food-friendly red in the world.

Why Sangiovese Matters Sangiovese is the grape through which Italy speaks most clearly: savoury rather than sweet, structured rather than showy, and inseparable from the food and landscape of Tuscany. To understand it is to understand the Italian idea of wine itself — that the bottle exists to serve the table.

Reviews for Sangiovese

2021 Costanti Brunello di Montalcino

99

2025 Rocca di Castagnoli “Fattoria di Scannano” Chianti

91

2020 Rocca di Castagnoli “Stielle” Chianti Classico Gran Selezione

95

2024 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Rosso di Montalcino

92

2023 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona “Rossofonte” Rosso di Montalcino

94

2019 San Polino Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

97

2021 San Polino Brunello di Montalcino

96

2015 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Library Release)

95

2017 Assolati Montecucco Rosso Riserva

92
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