Grape variety

Syrah

The Northern Rhône grape finding an intriguing Italian voice in Tuscany and Central Italy, where it adds spice, dark fruit, and violet aromatics to both varietals and blends.

Syrah is a grape variety most associated in Italy with Cortona, Sicilia, Lazio and Toscana. I have reviewed eight wines made from it.

A ripe bunch of dark blue-black Syrah grapes hanging on the vine.

The Rhône Grape Goes South Syrah is one of the world’s great noble red grapes, a native of France’s northern Rhône that has found a natural second home under the Italian sun. In the warmth of Sicily and the breezy hills of central Italy it produces deep, peppery, full-bodied reds that marry Mediterranean ripeness with the variety’s unmistakable signature of spice and dark fruit.

A Rhône Native Born on the steep granite terraces of the northern Rhône, where it makes the legendary wines of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie, Syrah is a sun-loving variety that needs warmth to ripen its tannins fully. Its arrival in Italy is relatively recent compared with the country’s native grapes, but it has adapted with real conviction, especially across the south.

Appearance and Structure Deeply coloured, often near-opaque, and full-bodied, Syrah gives wines with substantial but ripe, supple tannins and moderate acidity. In Italy’s warmest sites it leans rich and powerful, while cooler hillsides and higher altitude keep it fresh, lifted and aromatic — the tension between the two defining the best examples.

Aromatic Profile The hallmark is black pepper and dark fruit — blackberry, black cherry and plum — with notes of violet, liquorice, smoked meat, dried herbs and, with oak ageing, chocolate and sweet spice. That peppery, savoury, almost meaty character is the grape’s unmistakable signature, distinguishing it from softer Mediterranean reds.

A Grape of Sun and Altitude Syrah needs heat to ripen, but the finest Italian examples come from sites where elevation and sea breezes temper the warmth — the rolling interior hills of Sicily and the cool, windy slopes of Cortona — yielding wines that are ripe and full yet retain freshness, perfume and an essential savoury lift.

In the Cellar Italian Syrah ranges from juicy, fruit-forward everyday reds to ambitious, barrique-aged varietals with real structure and depth. Oak ageing rounds its tannins and amplifies its dark, spicy fruit, while the most thoughtful producers aim to preserve the grape’s peppery lift and aromatic detail rather than bury it under wood and extraction.

Sicily, the New Heartland Sicily has become the centre of gravity for Italian Syrah, where the hot days and cool nights of the island’s interior give wines of depth, spice and excellent value. The grape has proved so at home there that it now rivals the island’s natives as a flagship international variety.

Key Expressions

  • Sicily: ripe, peppery, full-bodied varietal reds, often of outstanding value.
  • Cortona (Tuscany): the grape’s most ambitious Italian home, giving structured, ageworthy reds.
  • Central & southern blends: a deepening, spicing partner to native and international grapes.

The Question of Aging Everyday Syrah is delicious young, while its fruit is vivid, but the top Cortona and Sicilian bottlings age well for a decade or more, the peppery fruit deepening into leather, smoke, dried herb and savoury game.

At the Table Its power and spice call for robust food: grilled and roast red meats, lamb, game, peppered steak, barbecue and hard mature cheeses. The peppery note flatters herb-crusted and spiced dishes especially well, making it a natural partner for the bold flavours of the south.

Syrah or Shiraz? The same grape carries two names and, traditionally, two philosophies. “Syrah” evokes the peppery, savoury, structured reds of its Rhône homeland, while “Shiraz” suggests the riper, richer, fruit-driven style made famous in Australia. Italian producers, working under the warm Mediterranean sun but increasingly seeking freshness and altitude, have charted a middle course — wines that are ripe and generous yet retain the spice, perfume and savoury lift of the classic Syrah model. The label almost always reads “Syrah” in Italy, a quiet signal of the elegant, food-friendly ambition behind the country’s best examples.

Why It Matters Syrah’s Italian adventure shows how a great international grape can take on a regional accent: in Sicily and Cortona it speaks with a distinctly Mediterranean voice, adding spice, power and depth to the modern Italian repertoire.

Reviews for Syrah

2017 Planeta “Maroccoli” Menfi Syrah

95

2022 Gaja Ca’Marcanda “Promis” Toscana

92

2023 Tua Rita “Rosso dei Notri” Toscana Super Tuscan

92

2022 Planeta “La Segreta” Terre Siciliane Rosso

90

2021 Planeta “Maroccoli” Menfi Syrah

95

2019 Malgiacca ‘Malgiacca’ Super Tuscan

96

2022 Tua Rita “Per Sempre” Syrah Toscana

99

2021 Caiarossa “Caiarossa” Toscana

97

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