2023 Gaja Ca’Marcanda “Vistamare” Toscana
The only white wine from the estate, Vistamare is an elegant blend of Vermentino, Viognier, and Fiano, three varieties that
I have reviewed 23 wines from Gaja, from the 2018 to 2024 vintages, across Barbaresco, Bolgheri, Langhe and others. Scores range from 92 to 99, averaging 96; the highest is the 2021 Gaja “Sori San Lorenzo” Barbaresco (99 points). Gaja also features in four journal articles on this site.
The Gaja name is synonymous with the modernization and global fame of Italian wine. Angelo Gaja revolutionized Barbaresco in the 1960s and 70s: green harvesting, small French barriques, temperature-controlled fermentation, and international varieties in the heart of Nebbiolo country. When his father Giovanni saw Cabernet Sauvignon going into a prime Barbaresco vineyard, he muttered “Darmagi” — Piedmontese for “what a shame” — and the name stuck to the wine. The single vineyards spent years labelled as Langhe Nebbiolo before returning to the Barbaresco DOCG.
In Barbaresco the three crus define the house. Costa Russi, at the bottom of the hill, is the floral charmer; Sorì Tildìn is the balance point, with the body of Costa Russi and the tannic frame of San Lorenzo; Sorì San Lorenzo, closest to the river and the warmest site, is the powerhouse. In Barolo, Sperss from Serralunga d’Alba is dark and full of tar and roses, Conteisa from Cerequio in La Morra is its ethereal opposite, and Dagromis blends the two communes for earlier drinking. The whites — Gaia & Rey Chardonnay, Alteni di Brassica, Rossj Bass — are as serious as the reds.
The family’s Tuscan chapter began with Pieve Santa Restituta in Montalcino, whose Sugarille vineyard sits on south-facing galestro, and Ca’ Marcanda in Bolgheri, bought in 1996. Its name means “house of endless negotiations” in Piedmontese, after the two years it took to secure the property. The range runs from Vistamare and Promis to Magari and the Bolgheri flagship, built on the area’s terre brune and terre bianche soils. Today Gaia Gaja is part of the team: in the torrid 2022 vintage they cut production by nearly half to keep the wines’ signature silkiness.
The only white wine from the estate, Vistamare is an elegant blend of Vermentino, Viognier, and Fiano, three varieties that
This is the entry point to Ca’Marcanda’s red wines (if not all the red Gajas). It is a blend of
Meaning “if only” or “perhaps”, Magari represents Gaja’s interpretation of a Bordeaux-inspired blend with an Italian soul. Made from Cabernet
The flagship of the estate is a Bolgheri DOC wine, made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc with Cabernet Sauvignon being
The 2022 vintage in Barbaresco is a fascinating paradox. On paper, it was a year that should have produced “cooked,”
The 2019 Darmagi shows the classical austerity of the year in its tightly wound personality. Black cherry, plum, espresso and
The 2020 is warmer and more enveloping, oozing with Mediterranean herbs, balsamic notes, and dark fruit.
The perfect introduction to the Gaja white style. Elegant, vibrant, and impeccable, blending Chardonnay with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc.
The flagship of the Bolgheri estate. The 2021 is structured and regal, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc
This is not your grassy, light Sauvignon. It is structured, dense, and floral, with a smoky minerality that speaks of