2021 Gaja Ca Marcanda Magari
The “dark horse” of the lineup. Often dominated by Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the 2021 is spicy, green, and
Producer
Gaja
I have reviewed 23 wines from Gaja, from the 2018 to 2024 vintages, across Barbaresco, Bolgheri, Langhe and others. Scores range from 92 to 99, averaging 96; the highest is the 2021 Gaja “Sori San Lorenzo” Barbaresco (99 points). Gaja also features in four journal articles on this site.
The Gaja name is synonymous with the modernization and global fame of Italian wine. Angelo Gaja revolutionized Barbaresco in the 1960s and 70s: green harvesting, small French barriques, temperature-controlled fermentation, and international varieties in the heart of Nebbiolo country. When his father Giovanni saw Cabernet Sauvignon going into a prime Barbaresco vineyard, he muttered “Darmagi” — Piedmontese for “what a shame” — and the name stuck to the wine. The single vineyards spent years labelled as Langhe Nebbiolo before returning to the Barbaresco DOCG.
In Barbaresco the three crus define the house. Costa Russi, at the bottom of the hill, is the floral charmer; Sorì Tildìn is the balance point, with the body of Costa Russi and the tannic frame of San Lorenzo; Sorì San Lorenzo, closest to the river and the warmest site, is the powerhouse. In Barolo, Sperss from Serralunga d’Alba is dark and full of tar and roses, Conteisa from Cerequio in La Morra is its ethereal opposite, and Dagromis blends the two communes for earlier drinking. The whites — Gaia & Rey Chardonnay, Alteni di Brassica, Rossj Bass — are as serious as the reds.
The family’s Tuscan chapter began with Pieve Santa Restituta in Montalcino, whose Sugarille vineyard sits on south-facing galestro, and Ca’ Marcanda in Bolgheri, bought in 1996. Its name means “house of endless negotiations” in Piedmontese, after the two years it took to secure the property. The range runs from Vistamare and Promis to Magari and the Bolgheri flagship, built on the area’s terre brune and terre bianche soils. Today Gaia Gaja is part of the team: in the torrid 2022 vintage they cut production by nearly half to keep the wines’ signature silkiness.
Wine Reviews for Gaja
Show 14 more reviews
- 2021 Gaja Ca Marcanda Magari97
- 2018 Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta “Sugarille” Brunello di Montalcino95
- 2020 Gaja “Conteisa” Barolo97
- 2020 Gaja “Costa Russi” Barbaresco98
- 2021 Gaja “Costa Russi” Barbaresco97
- 2021 Gaja “Sori Tildìn” Barbaresco97
- 2021 Gaja “Sori San Lorenzo” Barbaresco99
- 2023 Gaja “Gaia & Rey” Chardonnay97
- 2021 Gaja Barbaresco98
- 2020 Gaja “Sori Tildìn” Barbaresco97
- 2020 Gaja Barbaresco94
- 2020 Gaja “Sori San Lorenzo” Barbaresco97
- 2020 Gaja “Sperss” Barolo98
- 2021 Gaja “Dagromis” Barolo95
2018 Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta “Sugarille” Brunello di Montalcino
Sugarille is a single, south-facing vineyard with rocky, galestro soil. This is a Brunello of intensity and wind-swept power, distinct
2018 Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta “Sugarille” Brunello di Montalcino Read Post »
2020 Gaja “Conteisa” Barolo
Sourced from the Cerequio cru in La Morra, this is the antithesis of Sperss. It is floral, ethereal, and refined,
2020 Gaja “Costa Russi” Barbaresco
In 2020, Costa Russi is pure silk. It bursts with rose petal, red cherry, and mild spices. It is already
2021 Gaja “Costa Russi” Barbaresco
The charmer of the trio. Sitting at the bottom of the hill, the 2021 edition retains its signature floral elegance
2021 Gaja “Sori Tildìn” Barbaresco
The balance point. The 2021 Tildìn is profound—it has the body of Costa Russi but the tannic architecture of San
2021 Gaja “Sori San Lorenzo” Barbaresco
The powerhouse. Closest to the river and the warmest site, the 2021 is wild and balsamic. It is brooding, tannic,
2023 Gaja “Gaia & Rey” Chardonnay
Named after his daughter and grandmother, this is one of Italy’s first wines to prove that Chardonnay could age for
2021 Gaja Barbaresco
The “Annata” is shaping up to be a modern classic. 2021 was a vintage of structure and tension. This wine
2020 Gaja “Sori Tildìn” Barbaresco
A rounder, more generous expression of this vineyard. The 2020 shows ripe plum, earth, and a polished texture that makes